Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice 2010, Domaine de la Vougeraie, Burgundy, France

Drunk JivaHill Resort, Crozet, France, August 2015 

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The winery

Domaine de la Vougeraie , based in the village of Premeaux-Prissey, close to Nuits St. Georges in the North of Burgundy represents a collection of remarkable vineyard plots acquired through two generations of strategic acquisition by its owners, the Boisset Family.

The third largest wine conglomerate in France, and the largest single producer in Burgundy, the Boisset Family has risen from humble beginnings in 1961, when an enterprising, 18-year-old Jean-Claude Boisset founded a negociant business in Nuits-St.-George. Three years later he purchased his first vines, and five years after that, he and his wife gave birth to their son Jean-Charles who, along with his sister Nathalie, currently runs the business. In the course of Jean-Charles Boisset's lifetime, the Boisset Family has acquired dozens of domaines and probably hundreds of vineyard plots in Burgundy.

In 1999, Jean-Charles and his sister combined the 86.4 acres across 28 different appellations  that the family owned into a new domaine which they called Vougeraie. They then began to transition all the vineyards to organic and biodynamic viticulture and it is now the largest organic and biodynamic producer in the Cote d'Or. The name comes from the significant holdings, plus the fact that it is Jean-Claude Boisset’s home, in the village of Vougeot. The winery is located however in the old Claudine Deschamps (Madame Jean-Claude Boisset) cellars in Prémeaux. 

With nearly 40 hectares of vineyard and over 30 different appellations, including six grand crus(Musigny, Bonnes Mares, Clos Vougeot, Charmes Chambertin, Mazoyères, Corton Clos du Roi and Corton Charlemagne), this is one of Burgundy’s leading domaines.

The wines were made by Pascal Marchand of Comte Armand in Pommard, from 1999 to 2005 and subsequently by Pierre Vincent who has maintained the more delicate approach. The winemaking has extensive sorting, fermentations are with ambient yeasts and multiple rackings take place according to the phases of the moon to clarify the wine.

Pierre Vincent Wine Maker

Pierre Vincent Wine Maker

The wine

La Justice is produced from two hectares located at the bottom of the village with two distinct terroirs. The alluvial “les graviers” gives very concentrated grapes of confirmed maturity, whereas the higher part yields a lighter style wine. The stronger characteristics of La Justice make this a wine to lay down.

The Domaine's Gevrey-Chambertin is assembled from several parcels.To the east of the village’s land lies La Justice which lies on the centreline of the cone containing geological material which has fallen from the coomb over 1000's of years. Part of this cuvée comes from a neighbouring climat, Craite-Paille.

The wine was harvested on September 25th, 2010 under very poor conditions with a yield of 41 hl/ha. The harvest 100% de-stemmed, not crushed and vatted by gravity. No yeast addition. Maceration: pre-fermentation, cold (12-15°C) during 5 days. Length of maceration: 20 days. Cap-punched once a day until mid-fermentation and light pumping-over until the end of maceration. Pressing with the vertical press.

Aged 16 months in oak barrels (30 % Toasting: gentle and slow. Source of wood: Allier grains fins ,Cher and Cîteaux). Light and soft filtration. No fining. Bottling by gravity January 18th, 2012. (Leaf Day) Limited to 1,998 bottles Tasting notes

A wonderfully robust Gevrey-Chambertin with its distinctive power so different from other styles from Burgundy, most certainly a masculine Pinot Noir. The aromas of the forest floor were abundant and the wine was deep ruby in colour. It was smooth and concentrated in fruit on the palate with a long finish with hints of spice, truffles.  Very enjoyable with red meat and a top class wine from Burgundy. I will be trying to check out more of the Domaine's wines given their biodynamic credentials.